Anna in South America

Have spent that last couple of days pottering around Quito, going round the markets and trying to find a decent book to swap mine with! Will be going to the Galapagos tomorrow, so am very excited about that - will be offline for the next week, so don´t worry if I´ve not written during that time.
The sun is shining today, first time in days, so am going to wander round the plaza and take in the sights. xx

Well I got the bus yesterday and all was fine - managed to get back to Quito in one piece and happily had a very uneventful journey.
The day before, when we were still in Banos, Robin and I hired bikes and rode through the beautiful countryside - it was a bit similar to the Colca Valley in Peru - in order to get to the “Pailon del Diablo” which is a really pretty waterfall a few kilometres away from Banos. The majority of the journey was downhill, which was lucky as Robin´s pedal fell off each time she pedalled more than 8 times (got a bit boring after a while) so we generally had to walk the few uphill stretches we came across. But it was all worth it - the falls were beautiful and we managed to get a “Chiva” (a wooden open-top bus) all the way back, as we could pop the bikes in the back, so that shaved a good two hours off our journey!
Back in Quito now, I feel like I´ve done this town to death now and am just going to fill time in the next couple of days until I go to the Galapagos on Monday (which I am very excited about!). Said goodbye to my two best buds Felipe and Robin last night, so felt a bit down about that, but I just have to look forward to making new friends in the next places I go. That´s it for now, going to eat a nice big banana muffin in my favourite cafe and then go for (yet another) shop.

Still in Banos, but the good news is that the strike is now over, so all the roadblocks have gone. Went to the bus station this morning to check it all out and buses are running as usual - so Robin and I are going back to Quito tomorrow and it will only take 3 hours in the relative comfort of the bus. So that´s a relief!!The protests were quite peaceful in the end, just a real hassle as any vehicle that tried to get through got their tyres punctured by the bloke with the metal spike, bit tedious.
Banos itself is a lovely little town surrounded by mountains and one active volcano (which is actually in the process of erupting, you can see the lava coming out of it most of the time - more excitement!). Went to the hot spas yesterday and today we´re going to potter round the markets - going to try to stop myself buying anything as I´m quickly running out of space in my bag.
So, the great news is that I´ll be back in Quito tomorrow and will be going to the Galapagos the Monday after for a week. Then after that, I´ll be going to visit Charlotte in Curacao for two weeks (a little island of the venezuelan coast) - I feel like I need to relax, so will be lovely to stay in a house for a bit and go to the beautiful beaches! From Curacao, I´ll be flying directly to Mexico, where I´ll be staying for a month, so still got lots to look forward to!

Have been spending the last couple of days with Robin, just pottering around Quito - we wanted to go to the Otavalo market in the north, but the indigineous road blocks put paid to that and we couldn´t get out of Quito. So yesterday we embarked upon our trip to Banos, a spa town around 2 and a half hours south of Quito. We got to the bus station and we asked if we would be able to get there, they said there were a few road blocks, but we could go to the nearby town of Ambata and then get one of the frequent buses from there to Banos.
So off we went - we set off at around 10 am, with me keeping an eagle eye on our luggage (heard lots of stories of rascals nicking tourists´stuff), in a pretty good mood. All was going well, until we arrived at the first roadblock after around an hour and a half, we managed to get through that one. We thought we were out of the woods, but 15 minutes later, we got to another one. The roadblocks basically consist of hundreds of people chanting, surrounded by burning tires and police - quite an impressive sight. Anyway, the bus couldn´t get through this one, so we were told to walk through the block to the other side (for around 20 mins) and then the bus would take us further. A bit of an arse as we had our massive backpacks with us and it was boiling hot, but we thought never mind, we´ll just get on with it. And we also met a nice business man who walked with us to make sure we didn´t get any trouble from the mostly peaceful demonstration. Unfortunately, after walking 20 minutes we discovered the roadblocks were more widespread than we thought, so we walked an hour in the blistering heat until we got to a horrible town called LataCunga, which was really kicking off. Tried to get a lift with the Press, but they weren´t having any of it, then we luckily found a red pick-up truck, which we sat in the back of , which bypassed us past the trouble to the end of Latacunga, where we should have been able to catch a bus to Banos.
So we were quite chuffed with ourselves (me, Robin and this business man) and thought we were through the worst. Unfortunately, at the other end, the demonstrations were even worse, so we had to keep walking. We also had to let the locals know that we were not Americans, as the demonstration was against the US, so that added to the excitement (”Somos Inglesas!!”).
After walking a couple more hours uphill with a massive backpack in the blistering heat, I was starting to get a bit down, but I wasn´t going to let it break me! But then a massive thunderstorm started and it was hailing these enormous blocks of ice. It was impossible to walk through, so me, Robin and the businessman (Cristian) had to wait in a shop doorway for half an hour until it eased off - but it didn´t ease off and it was getting abit late, so we had to troop on in the pouring rain and the floods, with no chance of a lift (no cars could drive through the fast rapids) for another hour.
We finally made it past one of the last roadblocks and this other pick-up truck (this time made of wood - very uncomfortable) charged us a dollar to bypass us past the last roadblocks. So on we got, sat in the back under the pouring rain, when a psycho demonstrator with a giant metal spike ran towards us to try and puncture all the tyres, but luckily he got sidetracked by another van, so we sped off on this dirt track for about half an hour. It was lovely countryside actually and I got a good view of the volcano, so it wasn´t all bad, but it was absolutely freezing on the back of that van, so everyone sat/stood in silence, trying to fight off the onset of hypothermia.
We finally arrived on the road to Ambata, at top speed, bit scary. Robin and I were pretty happy to be on an actual road, so started to relax and bit, despite the cold. Then the worst bit of the day happened (for me, anyway). The van was going so fast that it ran over a dog, which we got to see the result of (being in the back of the pick-up) and this poor thing was yelping and screaming in pain - wasn´t quite dead, but wouldn´t live. So I felt pretty shit after that, as you can imagine.
Luckily we arrived in Ambata soon after, we jumped off the back of the truck (when it was still moving, they never stop for you) and then the business man met his Dad, who then took us to the bus station, where we just managed to get the bus to Banos.
And we finally arrived last night: the trip which should have taken 2-3 hours, ended up taking 10 hours and included a 25k hike (5 hours!) in all weather conditions with our bloody big bags. So we´re taking it easy today, going to go to the hot springs, but I´m not going to even think about how we´re going to get back to Quito!

After trapsing around a load of travel agents, I managed to get my Galapagos trip booked - sort of a last minute deal thingy in first class (ooh, get her) but I shan´t hold my breath for it being anything that extraordinary. Cost an absolute shitload so it better be worth it, but you do apparently get to swim with sea lions, sharks (perhaps not) and penguins so I´m quite excited! Before I go off there, I plan to go an visit the south of Ecuador with Robin (Australian girl) and then will meet up with my colombian buddy Felipe to do the Riobamba area. So I´ve got lots to look forward to!
Still pissing it down here, it´s worse than Manchester, but I´ve started to get to know the town now and am quite happy pottering around during the day. I spend most evenings in the hostel, there are loads of really nice people there, swapping their travelling stories (”I got kidnapped in La Paz,” ” Well, I got attacked by a dominant male sea lion in the galapagos…” etc, etc) all around a lovely campfire, looking out over the city. Going to spend the rest of today in the New town and am meeting up with a nice, but slightly moany Dutch girl for a coffee later on. May even hit the town tonight for some tequilas!

I was right about the equator thingy, took about an hour to get there on a rickety old rust bucket of a bus (can´t have been further than 10 miles away, but it had a bit of trouble going up hills) and then when you get there, you just stand on a line. It supposedly “blows your mind” to be standing in two hemispheres at once, but I just don´t tend to get excited about that sort of thing. Got my piccy though and we picked up a random German on the way, quite a friendly comical character, so it was all fun in the end. We all trooped off to go and see this big volcano crater in the afternoon, so that was pretty, and then ate some local cusine (one hour to make a sandwich - tasted nice though). Robin (new best friend) has now left for the Galapagos, so have spent today with my Colombian friend Felipe and a French girl called Clemence. We went on this ski lift thingy and saw Quito from above and then had a wander at the top. I´m supposed to be spending this afternoon trying to organise Galapagos, but am being slow as always - may have to do it tomorrow. There are a lot of demonstrations and police/army around at the mo, something to do with a free trade agreement with the US, so it´s all quite exciting (no, not dangerous, Mum) here.

I´ve made it to Quito in one piece! Was absolutely pissing it down when I arrived and didn´t stop until this morning. My hostel is lovely, full of friendly people, was chatting away within one minute of arriving there. Such a nice big group of people from all nationalities. Have been picking their brains about where to go and what to visit and am seriously considering doing the galapagos, even though it costs a fortune - am going to hunt around for a good deal today. In the meantime, am off with my new best friends Emma, Robyn and Donal to the Ecuator line today (I think you just straddle the line so you´re in two different hemispheres at once) Not that struck on the idea (how good can it be?) but everyone says it´s quite the experience. I reckon it´s just going to be like going to Greenwich and standing on the GMT line, but anyway, should do it whilst I´m here. Quito itself looks very pretty, a few army people around today, don´t know why, but seems reasonably safe.

Can´t believe how quickly these past 3 weeks have gone! Have just waved off Carlos on his plane back to the UK and I will also be leaving tomorrow for Ecuador (Quito) at midday. Decided to go there as I have found what sounds like a great hostel for someone in my position - they look after you well and organise activities so you can meet up with fellow backpackers - and they´re picking me up at the airport too. Will let you know how I get on with that.
The last few days in Lima have been brilliant! Carlos has endeavoured to show me the “real Lima” - have spent the days visiting the best beaches and I´ve eaten practically every delicacy there is in Peru (food is gorgeous here). Last night we went out with a large group of his friends to this area full of pubs and clubs, around 90km south of the centre of Lima. It´s where all the rich and beautiful of Lima go and the open-air clubs are on the beach. We stayed out to the early hours, slept for a bit (in the car) and then went straight to the beach for some more napping. Lots of fun! Was also nice to mingle a bit with Peruvians and get my Spanish back on track again. Have only had a couple of hours sleep today though, so am going to go and desperately try to pack my backpack (those hair straighteners will fit in!) and then go to bed. Will write again when I find internet access in Ecuador xx

Am back in Lima having completed the four day trek to the Inca trail. Was an absolutely amazing - saw such beautiful scenery, but it was bloody hard work - the second day nearly broke me! We were walking up sharp inclines for hours, then down for hours in either blistering heat or driving rain. And of course we were camping in the evening, so pits served as toilets and a cold water standpipe was usually the only showering facility (it was freezing!). But we did camp in the most wonderful places imaginable, sleeping under the clearest skies (never seen such the stars so bright) and waking up to clouds coating the Andes. Am so pleased I did it! On the final day, we had to get up at 4am to make the final trek to the Inca City of Machu Picchu and spent most of the day wandering around there - then we made our way to the hot thermal spas (water was a bit brown and smelt a bit eggy, but very nice all the same) which sorted my aches and pains out. Still can´t walk properly, but intend to spend the next few days relaxing on Lima´s beaches before I move on to… not sure where yet! Thanks everyone for your little comments, it´s lovely reading them - make sure you all take care. xx

Am just making the final preparations before going on the inca trail tomorrow morning. Looks like it´s going to be pretty hard going - up at 5.30 every morning, but should be worth it! Have enjoyed my time in Cusco, lots of backpackers here, met a couple of friendly Yorkshire folk in a pub the other night - were obviously my best friends by the end of a vodka-fuelled evening (large measures and high altitude meant I was a bit tiddly). The next day was a bit of a write-off, not felt that shit in a long time (don´t worry Mum, am being careful). Am about to go and eat a nice big tea now, will write again after the trail.